Kaeng Krachan is Thailand’s largest national park boasting an area of 2,915 square kilometers. It is comprised mostly of evergreen forest with some mixed deciduous forest found in the lowlands near the park headquarters. 60% of the park is mountainous. Less than half of the park is navigable by road, with the rest still blanketed under a thick layer of pristine rainforest. The park was gazetted in 1981 and owes its status to the intuition of His Majesty the King who requested that the forest be preserved as a watershed for the area. The forest feeds the Petchaburi and Pranburi rivers which provide water to thousands of households and farms throughout Petchaburi and Prachuap Kiri Kan provinces.
Kaeng Krachan is a part of a large forest block which extends into Burma, making this the largest patch of untamed wilderness in Southeast Asia.
Due to the low level of disturbance, wildlife thrive here and it is not uncommon to encounter large mammals such as elephant, tiger, leopards, panthers, deer, Gaur and civets along the roadside in the early mornings. I personally have encountered panthers in two of my five visits to the park. Due to the large size of the park and the richness of the forest habitat, Malaysian Tapir and Sumatran Rhinoceros are also presumed to be resident in the deep interior of the park.
Siamese freshwater crocodile, tottering on the brink of extinction in the wild, can be found deep within the park along the banks of the Kaeng Krachan River.
Kaeng Krachan can be divided into two zones: the lowland deciduous forest and the mountainous evergreen forest. Its unique geographical position allows both Indochinese (continental) and Sundaic (peninsular) species to be found here. The continental species of birds are usually found in the lowlands while peninsular birds are usually found in the deeper regions of the park where the forest consists predominantly of broad-leafed evergreen trees. It is therefore wise to spend equal amounts of time in both zones if one wishes to get a well-rounded picture of all the species available. I’d recommend at least three days as the minimum amount of time one should be spend at the park, as there is so much to offer the avid birder here. In fact, one can easily spend a week and still be left thirsting for more!
Birding
Kaeng Krachan is no doubt the “birdiest” national park in Thailand and home to many specialties. Although some species such as vultures and storks have been “lost” since the construction of the Kaeng Krachan dam, this park is still home to over 420 species of birds, perhaps the most of any national park in the country. Rare birds which have been recorded from the park include Giant Pitta, Wooly necked Stork, Great Argus, Grey headed Fish Eagle and White fronted Scops Owl. -In fact, Kaeng Krachan is the only place in Thailand with a reliable stakeout for the White fronted Scops Owl. For directions to the stakeout, please refer to Nick Upton’s site. The link can be found below.
Kaeng Krachan is home to a special bird, the Ratchet tailed Treepie, a bird which only exists in Vietnam, southern China and Kaeng Krachan National Park. Since it lives in the higher elevations of the park where few poachers enter, its numbers have fared well with the protection of the National Park staff.
Many ornithologists believe the status of the forest can be rated by the level of hornbill activity within the park. Hornbills are picky breeders and will only nest in hollows of trees which are over 100 years old. Using this rule as the yardstick, Kaeng Krachan is in tip-top shape as it boasts seven species of hornbill, including specials such as the Plain pouched and Austens’ Brown Hornbill, a recent split from Tickell’s Brown Hornbill. Outside of breeding season, large flocks of sometimes a hundred or so birds will flock together and roost in exposed braches of the tallest trees in the valleys and can easily be found by listening for their loud calls and powerful wingbeats.
All seven species of broadbill are resident in Kaeng Krachan and in the breeding season it is almost too easy to find them. The Sliver breasted Broadbill, which has a habit of building it’s nest hanging over streams, often mistakens the main road for a stream bed, and this bird can be seen feeding it’s young right from the comfort of the main trail.
Pitta are also abundant, with many birders heading to Kaeng Krachan in the rainy season to tick the breeding Blue winged Pitta and Eared Pitta. While the Giant Pitta has been encountered in the past, sightings are very rare and far between.
Trails and Birding Sites
Kaeng Krachan has a very limited trail network, but the beauty of the park is that all the birding can be done right along the roadside. This added attraction makes Kaeng Krachan one of the easiest places to find birds and is well suited for birders who find trails unappealing or may be suffering from old sports injuries or are advanced in age.
Following is a breakdown of all the main birding locations within the park:
1: HQ and Kaeng Krachan Dam
Everyone heading into the park has to stop at the head office to pay the entrance fee so it’s worth it to spend some time looking around to see what is available. Birds such as Racket tailed Treepie, White rumped Shama, Greater necklaced Laughingthrush, Black naped Oriole, Large tailed Nightjar and Vinous breasted Starling can be found either in the open fields or among the trees around the buildings.
The lake is fairly quiet but on occasion one will find Lesser Whistling Duck and Little Grebe on the open water. Osprey, though sometimes encountered, is an uncommon winter visitor.
2: Access road (through Khao Sam Yod and Khao Pakarang)
From the Head Office through to Bang Krang Campsite the road passes through a wide range of forest ranging from bamboo to degraded or selectively logged forest to mature old forest. Most birders usually don’t stop to check this area out too much (especially the area before the checkpoint) but at times interesting species can be found here as well. Large tailed Nightjar are common along the road in the night and early morning –Try not to run over them! In the early morning, this road is a good place to see wildlife crossing the road, such as civets, barking deer, elephant and on occasion, panthers and perhaps tiger.
A checkpoint located at Khao Sam Yod marks the entrance into the protected zone of the national park. Here one must produce a ticket which proves they have paid the park entry fee. The checkpoint opens for birders at around 5 AM. Those wishing to enter the park at this time MUST buy their ticket at the head office the day before or you will be refused entry. Tickets are valid for 24 hours.
Birds seen around here include Oriental Pied Hornbill, Sultan Tit, Vernal hanging Parrot, Crested Goshawk, Thick billed Green Pigeon, Sooty headed Bulbul and other open country birds. In the past (back in the early 90’s) this was the known stakeout for a single Woolly necked Stork which has since passed away.
Shortly after the checkpoint the road changes from a tarmac road to a dirt track which winds through impressive forest with breathtaking views of the valley. Often one will encounter large flocks of hornbill, usually Great or Wreathed Hornbills roosting in tall trees in the valley below.
Down the road is an elephant salt lick which attracts many animals and at times other good birds such as Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Large Scimitar Babbler, Black headed Bulbul and Common Flameback. As the weather warms up in the late morning, Crested Serpent Eagle and other raptors can be found taking to flight.
3: Baan Krang
Baan Krang was once an old logging station in the heart of the forest. Today it serves as a ranger outpost and campsite and is an excellent place to spend the night if one wishes to be up early to explore the national park. No bungalows are available but tents are allowed and toilet facilities are provided. There is no food or drink available here as well, so one should bring a portable stove and cooking implements if you wish to stay overnight.
From Baan Krang there is a trail which forks off south. Since the forest around here was logged in the past, little is left of the old forest but Blue Magpie, Hill Myna, Green eared Barbet and other good birds can be seen on the trail.
Often at night there is a chance of encountering large mammals around the campsite, although the rangers do prohibit people from venturing into the forest with searchlights as it can disturb the animals. Elephants wander through the forest around at night and I’ve personally seen the extent of damage a herd of stampeding elephants can do in this forest. One must proceed with great caution if your agenda includes a night out hunting for owls and other night species as the chances of meeting up with these large and potentially dangerous creatures are very high.
4: Kilometer 15-18
The most exciting birding can be done on a short strip of road after Ban Krang campsite from kilometer 15-18. This area is arguably the best birding zone in the park and most birders prefer to hang out here for the majority of the time. Finding where it begins is a breeze: there is a birdwatching sign erected at the beginning of the road!
A stream cuts through the road at various intervals and the forest is generally moist and damp. Birding is generally done from the roadside but one can also venture into the small trails which fork off the road or hike up the streams, provided they don’t head off too deep into the forest. Just walk up and down the road at your own leisure and you’ll be amazed at what you can find.
The mouth-watering list of species which can be found here include Black backed Dwarf Kingfisher, Banded Kingfisher, Rufous collared Kingfisher, Ruby cheeked Sunbird, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Tickells’ Brown Hornbill, Spot breasted Babbler, Crested Jay, Grey Peacock Pheasant, Banded Broadbill, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Dusky Broadbill, Silver breasted Broadbill, Red billed Malkoha, Eared Pitta, Blue winged Pitta, Green Magpie and if you are lucky Great Argus and White fronted Scops Owl.
This is also a chance one may encounter Giant Pitta here but don’t get your hopes high; chances of finding this bird take nothing short of a miracle.
Brown Fish Owl and Malaysian Night Heron are two birds which can be found along the stream or on the road at night if one searches.
Shortly after kilometer 20 the road narrows and climbs steeply into the mountains. It is advised to use a four-wheel drive when attempting this part of the journey, especially in the wet season as the road can be very treacherous, with a steep cliff on your left and a sheer drop on your right. The road is only open for alternating one-way traffic depending on the time of the day. Please be sure to check the time before heading off lest you meet head-on with a fellow birder and have a nasty spill on the edge of an abyss!
The road opens for cars heading up to Panoen Tung from 5.00 AM – 10.00 AM and again from 2.30 PM – 3.00 PM. The lane is open for traffic heading downhill to Baan Krang campsite from 12.00 PM – 1.00 PM and 4.30 PM – 6.00 PM. Planning is of utmost importance and one must carefully observe the rules here to avoid a possible fatal incident.
5: Kilometer 26-29
Heading up the mountain to Khao Panoen Tung, one will find breathtaking views of the valley and other mountains within in the park. Since the road is narrow, it is advised to park your car in a location which will not be an inconvenience for other drivers heading up the road.
The next best birding spot in the park is along the road from kilometer 26-29. This location is a good place to find a lot of species which are not found in the lower elevations. White hooded Babbler, Yellow eared Spiderhunter, Everett’s White Eye, Blue Pitta and Long tailed Broadbill are fairly easy to locate here. Again, the practice of walking up and down the road (as with kilometer 15-18) will yield a great number of species and requires little physical exertion on the part of the birder.
The star attraction of the park, the Ratchet tailed Treepie, is also found at this elevation and is best spotted along this stretch of the road.
The road here can be narrow so please use common sense when parking your vehicle.
For those who love trekking, a trail forks out from kilometer 27 which ends at the summit of Khao Panoen Tung. The trails are well maintained and offer good birding opportunities. Many birders have found this to be the best place to find Pin tailed Parrotfinch, which like to hang out in the cool forest around here. Along the stream course is a good place to look for Chestnut naped Forktail and in the heat of the day, just sitting still in the cool shade near the forest stream can offer great opportunities to see many species of birds which come down to bathe and drink.
6: Khao Panoen Tung campsite
Khao Panoen Tung campsite is set on a flat narrow ridge which serves as a ranger substation and has camping facilities. There is also a restaurant available for those who need a bite to eat or a good cup of coffee for those cold winter mornings. In the early months of the year, people from all over the country flock here to witness the beauty of the sea of mist which covers the entire valley in the mornings, making one feel like they are “literally” standing on top of the world.
It’s advised to drive up here in the afternoon when the road opens and camp overnight on the ridge so as to be on time for the early morning birds when the sun rises. Camping overnight up here has its rewards as well; often one can find civets and other mammals banging around the toilets and trash bins after dark and with a bit of spotlighting, heaven knows what else one might come up with!
Birding here in the mornings is also very rewarding with specials such as Yellow vented Green Pigeon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Silver eared Mesia, Flavescent Bulbul and Red billed Scimitar Babbler.
The height of the ridge gives commanding views over the valley and offers a good chance to see raptors and hornbills in flight or roosting among the tall trees. Sometimes the hornbills will fly swiftly over the ridge top, so low they can literally pluck the hair from off your head. I’ve experienced it a few times whilst standing on the edge of the ridge looking at a bird in the valley. The experience is awesome to say the least!
A good addition to your birding arsenal would be a telescope to help to pick out the birds as at times they can be off in the far distance.
7: Kaeng Krachan River and Thawtip falls
A five kilometer drive down from Khao Panoen Tung will take you to a parking lot at the end of the road. From here one must continue on foot if they wish to visit Thawtip falls or Kaeng Krachan river (rumored to be a five-kiloemter hike).
Standing in this part of the park, one begins to get a feel of what the real wilderness is like. There is no civilization or any hint of man’s handiwork out here; no ranger station, no electricity, nothing but you and naked mother nature. This is enthralling to an avid nature lover but to many city dwellers, the wilderness holds an inexplicable fear. In fact, many Thai people who visit get easily spooked as it gets “too quiet” for their liking. For this reason, birders should avoid this area during public holidays as locals love to crank the car stereo up as loud as possible to create a sort of “man-made” atmosphere.
The trail to the river is good for birds such as Red bearded Bee Eater, Speckled Piculet and Plain Sunbird . Green Broadbill can be found here but not in the lower reaches of the park. Some birders have gotten lucky and even seen Plain Pouched Hornbill on this trail.
The Kaeng Krachan river is also a nice place to spend the day resting in the shade and watching the birds as they come down to cool off or get a drink of water. Hiking upstream or downstream should be done with caution; though rare and elusive, Siamese Freshwater Crocodiles do exist in this area, usually in the wider and deeper parts of the river.
8: Khao Nga Ngan Nik Yuak Dong
The highest peak in the park, Khao Nga Ngan Nik Yuak Dong is a five-day hike from the Kaeng Krachan River. The mountain borders Burma and the trek must be undertaken with permission from the parks authority and under the supervision of armed rangers for protection. Few birders venture into this area, but a 1992 expedition revealed specialties such as Green Cochoa, Silver eared Mesia, Black throated Parrotbill and Chestnut Crowned Laughingthrush.
9: Pala-U Waterfall
Though technically located within the same national park, this waterfall is well to the south of the park and is accessed through its own road. Since it is separated in this sense, the review of this site has been posted on a different page.
Accommodation
The only accommodations available in the park are centered around the National Park Office Headquarters. Most are in poor condition and in desperate need of renovation or a complete makeover. I assume that much of the revenue generated from the influx of tourists will pay for this in the future.
Camping is allowed at Baan Krang and Panoen Tung but one must provide their own tents and bedding. No food is available at Baan Krang so cooking implements should be brought along as well. Khao Panoen Tung has a restaurant but no accommodations.
Some birders prefer to camp outside the park and enter every morning, the downside being that one must pay an entrance fee every day. No doubt the accommodations are a lot better and more comfortable, so you decide what suits you best.
A warning to those with vehicles: the nearest (reliable) gas station is located in Ampur Tayang. From there, no pumps are available around the dam or within the park. The distances between birding sites are often too far for one to trek and will require the use of a vehicle. Tank up before heading into the park or you may find yourself short on fuel and end up in deep trouble!
Getting there
Kaeng Krachan is roughly 200 kilometers from Bangkok and can easily be accessed by local buses, but any serious birder should rent a vehicle if they want to visit all the birding sites available in the park. I would highly recommend one rent a good quality 4WD vehicle as opposed to a sedan or mini bus which will be hard to navigate these roads, especially the steep climb to Khao Panoen Tung and the river crossings from kilometer 15-18. Even vehicles with good clearance have been known to suffer undercarriage damage from rocks and debris while attempting to cross some steep embankments around kilometer 16.
Books
For those who want a complete list of available birds in the park, I recommend one purchase the checklist from BCST titled “Birds of Kaeng Krachan” by Utai Treesucon. The book should be available at Kaeng Krachan HQ or from the BCST store.
Personal rating
This park is no doubt one of the biggest birding attractions in the entire country and a must for all birders visiting the country. Its size and diversity make it a unique site which offers easy birding and plentiful numbers, provided one has ample time to visit all the best locations. This park ranks in one of the five top spots to visit in Thailand and easily falls into first or second- best birding site in the south (the other being Hala Bala National Park).
Don’t pass up this site or you will regret it!
Links
- Nick Upton’s review of Kaeng Krachan National Park
- Kaeng Krachan National Park on Thailand’s National Parks Website
